A Place for Knitting Machine Enthusiasts
Yarn, Knitting Machine & Best Uses
2/32 - 2/16 (3/24)
EXTREMELY FINE, 2 STRANDS USUALLY USED OR WITH OTHER YARN. VERY LIGHT FABRIC eg: LACE SHAWLS. IF YARN VERY STRONG, CAN USE 1 STRAND FOR PUNCH LACE. FINE KNIT BAR ALWAYS USED.
THERE IS A NEW STANDARD FOR THIS YARN, AND IT IS 0 (ZERO).
2/16 (3/24) - 2/12 (3/18)
DRESS WEIGHT YARN, SKIRTS OR PANTS and JACQUARD. I USE THE FINE KNIT BAR ALWAYS. THIS YARN IS USED FOR LACE SHAWLS. TAKE CARE WHEN WORKING WITH IT AS TEARING BACK IS NOT GOING TO WORK AS IT WILL BREAK. MAKES A VERY THIN FABRIC.
I STRUGGLE WITH THIS TERM MEANING ANYTHING BUT REALLY THIN YARN. THEY SAY GOOD FOR SOCKS ALSO, BUT I HAVE NO IDEA. MANY PEOPLE USE THIS FOR COLOUR WORK THAT REQUIRES 3 or MORE YARNS PER ROW OF KNITTING. I ALWAYS USE THIS FOR PUNCH LACE BUT ONLY "SILK YARN" AS IT WILL NEVER BREAK, MUST BE CUT.
2/12 (3/18) - 2/8 (3/12)
DRESS WEIGHT YARN, SKIRTS OR PANTS ANYTHING LIGHTWEIGHT LIKE TOPS AND VESTS AND FOR LACE SHAWLS, ALSO JACQUARD. HAS WORKED GREAT FOR DOUBLE JACQUARD FOR ME ON A 4.5mm AND 6.5mm MACHINE. I LOVE THIS YARN FOR LACE WORK BUT HARD TO WORK WITH. GOOD FOR SOCKS ALSO, SOCK WEIGHT ALSO GREAT FOR CABLES. (Can use larger stitch on 6.5mm for a lacey look)
2 TO 3 STRANDS = LIGHT DK
MANY PEOPLE USE THIS FOR COLOUR WORK THAT REQUIRES 3 or MORE YARNS PER ROW OF KNITTING.
REALLY NICE WEIGHT FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING. GREAT ON A 6.5mm AND GREAT FOR CABLES. WHEN CABLING, EXPERIMENTING IS BEST AS I HAVE CABLED WITH EVERY YARN INCLUDING BULKY.
I ALSO USE THIS TO MAKE HAND KNIT FLOWERS AND FELTED ADORNMENTS, AND HAVE USED IT FOR LACE SHAWL TYPE ITEMS.
MY FAVORITE WEIGHT AND IT LOOKS LIKE HAND KNITTING WHEN DONE ON A MACHINE.
EXCEPTIONAL YARN FOR FELTING 100% WOOL, WILL NOT BE HEAVY AS FELTING ADDS WEIGHT. GREAT IN BAMBOO, SOYA, TENCEL AND NEWER TYPE FIBERS
KNITS WELL AND HOLDS UP WELL. YOU CAN KNIT ANY TYPE OF GARMENT FROM CLOTHES TO HATS TO BLANKETS FROM THIS. GREAT FOR JACKETS.
GREAT FOR FELTING.
HARDER FOR MULTI STRAND, MULTI COLORED KNITTING BUT WORKED WELL FOR ME ON A 9mm, BUT PRODUCES A HEAVY FABRIC.
I REALLY LIKE THIS IN COTTON FOR HEAVIER TOPS IN THE WINTER THAT CAN BREATH, I RUN HOT AND STAY AWAY FROM WOOL. GREAT IN SOYA, BAMBOO, SEA CELL AND NEWER TYPE FIBERS.
12/14 - 2/8 (3/12) - 2/4 (4/8)
VERY POPULAR YARN FOR JACKETS OR SWEATERS OF ALL KINDS. YOU ARE GETTING INTO A HEAVIER YARN NOW SO CABLING OR COLOR WORK BECOMES A LOT TOUGHER BUT I HAVE PRODUCED A GREAT CABLE FABRIC FROM THIS. NICE AND WARM. BUT VERY HEAVY, GOOD FOR BLANKETS.
I WOULD ALSO ADD ANY FURRY YARN HERE SUCH AS MOHAIR AS YOU NEED A LARGE STITCH FOR THE HAIR IN THE YARN TO FLUFF OUT.
THIS IS A THICK YARN SO SOME YARNS IN THIS CATEGORY MAY NOT WORK ON A 6.5mm.
6.5 MOHAIR ONLY
YOU WOULD BETTER OFF WITH A LEVEL 5 YARN ON A 9mm BUT WHEN USING FURRY YARN OR MOHAIR, THIS IS THE CLASS I WOULD PUT THEM IN AS YOU NEED A LARGE STITCH TO ALLOW THE FUR TO SIT WELL IN THE STITCH/FABRIC.
SOME OF THIS YARN WILL BE TOO THICK TO USE ON THE KNITTING MACHINE OR NOT SMOOTH ENOUGH.
Shawl Design by:
Dorothy Siemens of Fiddlesticks Knitting
This sections discusses Yarn, Knitting Machine types and which yarn works well with which machine. I have also added a section on what types of garments would knit up best using what weight yarn, or the weight usually used for a specific garment, but I do not discuss COBWEB Weight at 6,000 YPP and 40 WPI and "ZEPHYR" is even thinner.
Remember that "PLY" means how yarn is made, that it is "twisted together", so it can be ANY weight. Also, "Worsted" also means how a certain type of wool is made and not just a weight class. For all accounts remember it is a higher grade yarn than other wool yarns, even though, it is commonly used by people to describe a yarn weight rather than a yarn type. I do not rely on this term and and look to other types of terms when looking at wool yarn in order to figuring out what weight it is. Kind off the same thing as "ply".
TIDBIT on G-CARRIAGE: When using a Garter Carriage on Brother Machines, increase the tension by 1 to 2 levels tighter as a rule of thumb.
For all intents, the higher the number the bigger the stitch for the tension information below, depending on your KM, you may need to invert the numbers to the lower number being the looser stitch.